By: Sara Konkoly

By: Sara Konkoly

Home CHEF INTERVIEWViviana Varese Chef

Viviana Varese Chef

by Sara Konkoly

What’s your go-to breakfast when you have time to truly enjoy it?

Breakfast is my favorite time of day, sweet and savory. I have a sweet tooth, which is why
I’ve dedicated a lot of space to it, even at FAAK, my restaurant in Milan. Bread, butter, and
jam are a must.

Is there a childhood dish or flavor that shaped the way you cook today?

I come from a family of restaurateurs, and there’s a dish that has become my signature,
one that my mother used to cook, and which has evolved and changed over the years and
across various restaurants and projects: pasta and potatoes.

Before becoming a chef, did you ever imagine a different path for yourself?

I grew up in a restaurant and became an entrepreneur at 20 years old. At 13, I was already
making pizzas, so my future was written, and then over time, between internships,
meetings, travel, and training, my passion grew.

Of all the French pastries, which one do you most love making—and why?

I love French pastries, and while I’m not a pastry chef, I’ve developed a passion for them
over the years, and through courses and books, I’ve studied the subject. My favorites are
pain au chocolate and croquembouche, which I often serve as a monumental dessert at
events.

Is there a food or ingredient you’re secretly obsessed with keeping in your kitchen at all times?

Among my favorite ingredients, which I don’t secretly keep in the kitchen but often add to
dishes, is lemon. It reminds me of my homeland, the Amalfi Coast, and I sing its praises
like Neruda in his poetry.

Is there a food trend or dish you just don’t love—no matter how popular it is?

I don’t like fermentation too much, I like the material and the live, fresh ingredient.

If you could unlock one chef’s secret recipe, whose would it be—and what dish?

I’d like to share the recipe for my super spaghettino with clams and smoked fish broth,
lemon, and tarallo (the broth contains a secret ingredient!).

What’s the most unforgettable meal you’ve ever had—whether cooking it or being served?

The most unforgettable meal I have ever had is definitely at “El Celler de Can Roca”.

Who has mentored or influenced you most in your culinary journey?

Among the experiences that have most influenced me are certainly those with Gualtiero
Marchesi and in the Roca kitchens in Spain. Over the years, I’ve built my own dictionary of
taste and also learned the importance of technology and organization.

Have you noticed differences in the atmosphere or leadership styles in kitchens led by women vs. men? How has that shaped your experience?

I believe there’s more harmony in kitchens led by women. I’ve always tried to create
balanced environments, where people’s differences and uniqueness are valued and where
everyone feels welcome. Kitchens without machismo and without military attitude.

Where do you turn for creative inspiration when you’re in a cooking rut?

My inspiration comes from experiences, travel, contaminations, from traveling the
world tasting, from knowledge of raw materials and techniques.

If you could give one piece of advice to the next generation of female chefs, what would it be?

Be passionate about what you do, stay humble, and always be curious and always
want to learn.


Instagram: @vivianavaresechef
@polpopesce
@faakfuoco
Website: https://www.vivianavaresechef.it/
https://www.polpopesce.it/
https://www.faakfaak.it/

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